Thursday, March 3, 2011

Cosmetic Ingredient studies lesson series (1 )---- acne ingredients

 In June this year, China will continue to the United States, European Union, after a cosmetic ingredient and forced to become an open country, which is the world's largest consumer groups for women, is nothing more than a boon, and Paula is also the time to enter the Chinese consumer by the vision of ingredients in cosmetics on her extensive expertise and experience in the beauty of Chinese women will be spending on the compass. we all know, hundreds of thousands of cosmetic ingredients, there are hundreds of commonly used types of cosmetics company continues to introduce new year , light to remember those tongue-twisting chemical name has been very difficult, but most lack expertise in this area consumers, if not an expert's instructions, the name it is always just a name.
a Acne composition, acne is a complex process, prevention and treatment of acne ingredients acne in different ways, sterilization can be divided into categories such as benzoyl peroxide (to kill acne bacteria cause acne), Exfoliating class such as salicylic acid (to help keep them open pores), inhibit the sebaceous glands, such as different type of vitamin A acid (for acne bacteria to prevent root growth environment.) component of most acne active ingredients stimulate the skin to a certain extent, some need a doctor's prescription acne ingredients.
azelaic acid, the English name azelaic acid: a prescription drug in the United States; from wheat, rye, barley, 15% to 20% concentration of azelaic acid cream can be used to effective treatment for many skin diseases In 2002, FDA approved azelaic acid can be used for the treatment of acne. In addition to acne, the azelaic acid can also be the treatment of skin pigmentation. However, studies have found that the irritation than with azelaic acid hydroquinone and glycolic acid or kojic acid mixture stronger. If you do not want to use of vitamin A acid in acne, azelaic acid is a good choice.
benzoyl peroxide, the English name of benzoyl peroxide: the most effective use of to non-prescription acne treatment fungicides. benzoyl peroxide to penetrate pores and kill acne caused by Propionibacterium acnes, skin irritation is also very small. and various other antibiotics, it does not generate resistance. recent study found that benzoyl peroxide acne treatment more effective than some prescription drugs such as oral and topical antibiotics and better.
market, the concentration of benzoyl peroxide solution, generally between 2.5% to 10% in use. , it is best to use low concentrations of products, because benzoyl peroxide 2.5% to 5% or 10% less on skin irritation, and the results are similar. If the bacteria is very stubborn, and then consider the use of high concentrations of products.
different vitamin A acid, English name isotretinoin: vitamin A from the extract. It can inhibit the sebaceous glands (oily substance produced in the skin structure of the organization) secretion, the sebaceous gland to shrink to the size of the baby to prevent the sebum (oily substance) blocked hair follicles, oil and skin cells to reduce the formation of acne mixed chance to avoid for Propionibacterium acnes (propionibacterium acnes) needed for growth environment in which improvement in acne. When the end of treatment, the oil will re-secretion of the sebaceous glands will gradually become larger, but not large enough to pretreatment level. a very good choice dry lips, mild nosebleeds (taking the first few days will feel very dry nose), hair loss, musculoskeletal pain, skin itching, rash, skin vulnerable to sun red sunburn, headaches, hand molting, other, more serious but rare side effects There are severe headache, nausea, vomiting, blurred vision, mood changes, depression, severe stomach pain, diarrhea, night vision loss, gastrointestinal problems, persistent dry eyes, tendons, calcium accumulation, increased cholesterol and skin turn yellow. But a recent study found that depression does not occur during treatment.
norgestimate / ethinyl estradiol, the English name Ortho Tri-Cyclen: A low-dose oral contraceptives, mainly composed of norgestimate / ethinyl estradiol (norgestimate / ethinyl estradiol ), in the United States are allowed to be used to treat acne; in Canada, the pill Diane -35 (Diane-35, the main component of cyproterone acetate and ethinyl estradiol) is allowed for the treatment of acne. has been suggested that dose oral contraceptives can effectively treat acne, is also very safe to use. Vitamin B5, is said to treat acne. but only one of the early 1980s support this view. no study has confirmed that pantothenic acid is effective in treating acne, but there are few studies found that it can maintain the water and promote wound healing.
salicylic acid, its English name salicylic acid: also known as b-hydroxy acid (BHA, beta hydroxy acid), has multiple functions, can cause acne to solve a variety of reasons. For decades, dermatologists have been using salicylic acid come horny, but it is also an anti-stimulus component. salicylic acid is very similar to the structure and aspirin (aspirin's scientific name is acetylsalicylic acid acetylsalicylic acid), so it also has anti-inflammatory effect. Salicylic acid can also be sterilization, which is used to treat acne, it is an important aspect. Studies have shown that salicylic acid can increase the skin thickness, improve skin barrier function, and promote collagen synthesis. in scrub areas, 8% to 12% concentration of salicylic acid is an effective exfoliating treatment for 0,5% to 2% of the more moderate nature of the concentration of salicylic acid, similar to the acid (see AHA), can exfoliate the skin surface to play role. In addition, the acid can penetrate into pores (AHA can not), clear the pores in the aging of skin cells, it can improve the symptoms of acne.
Sodium Phosphate Vitamin C, the English name of sodium ascorbyl phosphate: a stable state of fat-soluble vitamin C, can be used as .1% of the antioxidant vitamin C concentration of sodium phosphate acne caused by bacteria sterilization, more than 5% of sodium phosphate concentration of vitamin C can reduce the inflammation of acne reaction. this research is not sufficient room for development, but very.
tazarotene, the English name tazarotene: a synthetic vitamin A, vitamin A acid in nature and (a retinoic acid isomers, Retin-A and Renova is the active ingredient) is very similar, used to treat acne.
tea tree oil, the English name of tea tree oil: Tea Leaves alternate scientific name is Melaleuca Melaleuca alternifolia, tea tree oil so also known as Melaleuca oil. bactericidal function of tea, can kill bacteria that cause acne. has been suggested that 5% tea tree oil and 2.5% benzoyl peroxide can be effective in reducing acne, but the peroxide Benzoyl more effective. benzoyl peroxide can reduce skin oils more significant. However, tea tree oil on the skin to stimulate the weaker side. treatment is recommended for acne concentration of 5% to 10% of the tea tree oil, but most of the concentration of tea tree oil in cosmetics are less than 1%, the sterilization effect is not good.
triclosan, the English name of triclosan: a good fungicide, widely used, such as mouthwash and cleansing products . However, whether triclosan treatment of acne has not yet confirmed. In addition, long-term use will lead to bacterial resistance to antibiotics is also controversial. triclosan in skin care products whether sterilization was also skeptical.
zinc, English name zinc: a growing number of studies have shown that zinc has a significant anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects. It used simultaneously with the topical antibiotic erythromycin, the role also has the treatment of acne.
glucose zinc, English name zinc gluconate: a compound of zinc and gluconic acid, has anti-viral effect, commonly used in cold medicine. a study ) in the treatment of acne side effects of minocycline and found that glucose has zinc efficacy in inflammatory acne, but the efficacy of minocycline to be higher than 17%. whether the external drug-related subjects is unclear. However, to note that high doses of zinc toxic, as supplements, zinc intake should not exceed 100 mg per day.
two water components, which are widely used cosmetic ingredient helps the skin retain moisture (wet). Glycerin is the most typical cosmetics and most effective water retaining agent. Some insurance agent is a substance similar to skin structure, good for the skin, the insurance agent, including ceramide, lecithin , glycerol, polysaccharide, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, mucopolysaccharides, PCA sodium, collagen, elastin, proteins, amino acids, cholesterol, glucose, sucrose, fructose, glycogen, phospholipids, sphingolipids, and glucose-amino sugar glucan. Which of these ingredients are not particularly prominent, each are effective, but none of them can permanently change the structure of the skin.
acetyl glucosamine, the English name acetyl glucosamine: amino sugars , and mucopolysaccharide hyaluronic acid is the main component of the skin have a good water, and high concentrations can promote wound healing.
acid, English name alpha hydroxy acid: acid or milk from a variety of plant extracted, but 99% of the acid in cosmetics are synthetic. low concentration (less than 3%) of the acid can act as a retaining agent. acid in the most effective and most studied is glycolic acid and lactic acid. malic acid, lemon acid and tartaric acid are also effective, but relatively speaking, they are less stable nature, not suitable for use on the skin; and few studies have confirmed that they are good for the skin.
aloe vera, the English name of aloe vera: aloe vera is no evidence that good for the skin. cosmetics aloe, there should be the role of water, aloe encumbered agent is used because it contains polysaccharides and steroids (steroid good for the skin, such as cholesterol).
glucan oligosaccharides, English name alpha glucan oligosaccharide: Gentle agent used in cosmetics and SAR.
fermentation product of alternating single-cell extract, the English name Alteromonas ferment extract: turn seawater Aeromonas is a gram-negative bacteria, skin may have a role in water conservation, but has not been confirmed by research.
amino acids, the English name amino acid: all the proteins in the human body are made of amino acids, a common amino acids are alanine, arginine, days asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine , proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine. In skin care products, amino acids are water features, and some amino acids with antioxidant properties, and promote wound healing capabilities.
amino acid, the English name aminobutyric acid: an amino acid retains water, and possibly anti-inflammatory effects.
peanut extract English name Arachis hypogaea extract: the material extracted from the peanuts, and moisturizing the skin anti-inflammatory effect, but also children and adults with peanut common food allergens of 5.
marjoram algae extract, English name bladderwrack extract: a seaweed extract; is an effective anti-oxidants, with water role.
wrinkle wave carrageenan, the English name carrageenan: a kind of seaweed, in cosmetics as thickening agents and SAR.
ceramide, English name ceramides: there is fat in the skin, the skin external One of the main component of the structure. the skin because of the stromal cells, was able to avoid water loss, the stromal cells from 50% of ceramide, cholesterol 25% and 15% of the free fatty acids. Ceramide skin retain moisture and regulate cell function in the necessary material. In adding ceramide skin care products help to restore the skin barrier system.
cholesterol, English name cholesterol: the outer protective layer of skin by ceramide, cholesterol and free fatty acids. Cosmetics of cholesterol can maintain the normal function of the skin. It can also be used as stabilizer, soft agent and SAR.
collagen, English name collagen: Collagen is widely distributed in the body of a class of proteins that can support the skin, internal organs , muscle, bone and cartilage. cosmetics collagen is mainly extracted from animal tissue, but some plants is very similar composition and collagen can also be used in cosmetics. whether from animals or plants, collagen is good water retaining agent. but will not wipe the skin and promote collagen synthesis of collagen, and collagen in cosmetics will not be absorbed through the skin to become part of the skin.
collagen amino acids, collagen amino acid English name : hydrolysis of collagen derived from amino acids, the skin has very good water effects.
dextran, the English name dextran: the role of a polysaccharide water.
dextrin, English name dextrin: is classified as a polysaccharide a carbohydrate. the role of water on the skin.
egg yolk, the English name of egg yolk: mainly water and fat (especially cholesterol) form, so it's soft skin is a good agent and insurance agent.
elastin, the English name of elastin): the main component of skin, you can maintain skin elasticity. plants and animals can be extracted elastin, is used in cosmetics is a good insurance agent. In addition to water, there is no study found There are other benefits of its skin.
fish cartilage extract, the English name of fish cartilage extract: possible effect of water, but no studies have confirmed its good for the skin.
fructose, English name fructose: fructose is included a class of sugars, including glucose, retains water.
glutamate, the English name of glutamic acid: extracted from corn gluten amino acids, the skin retains water. not found on cleaning products containing glutamate the benefits of the skin especially.
glycerol, English name glycerin: present in a variety of plant and animal fats, sugar by fat hydrolysis and fermentation can also be synthesized. glycerine to penetrate the stromal cells, absorption of water to maintain the appropriate balance between the body and strengthen the skin's natural protection. another study found, the skin cells the presence of interstitial glycerol is conducive to the function of skin, fat to play better.
glyceride, glyceryl English name ester: fats and oils contain a large class of ingredients. fats and oils used in cosmetics moist, lubricants, insurance agent and thickening agent.
glycogen, the English name of glycogen: the role of the skin with water polysaccharide .
glycolipids, the English name glycolipid: from the simple sugars and fat composition of a fat cell membrane, and important components of ceramide. glycolipids in the cell wall will be covered, clutching the cells together, and keep moisture content.
Poria, English name hoelen: long in the ground, pine, or other bacteria on the roots of tilting. Topically has antibacterial, antiseptic, wound healing and water features.
hyaluronic acid, English Name hyaluronic acid: a component of skin, in skin care products as a good insurance agent.
hydrolyzed vegetable protein, the English name of hydrolyzed vegetable protein: Any of various proteins produced by the hydrolysis of the material, the main agent with the encumbered.
hydroxyethyl cellulose, English name hydroxyethylcellulose: plant extracts, usually encumbered agent or emulsifier, film former can also be used.
hydroxyproline, English name hydroxyproline: the obtained proline, hydroxyproline of collagen and other structural proteins of the basic ingredients. the healing of skin function and involvement of hydroxyproline. hydroxyproline in the skin, whether used to promote wound healing has not yet been confirmed, however, it has a protein similar to collagen retains water.
inositol, English name inositol: the main component of lecithin, water on the nature of the skin.
different stearamido DEA, English name isostearamide DEA : used as a surface active agent, insurance agent and thickening agent.
galacturonic acid, its English name lactobionate: the role of the skin with water polysaccharide.
lecithin, English name lecithin: a dynamic presence in the egg yolk and in the plant cell membrane phospholipids, is widely used in cosmetics, soft agent and SAR.
melibiose, English name melibiose: a type of sugar, water has a good effect.
poly methyl glucitol ether, -20, its English name methyl gluceth-20: surety agent and skin with the liquid modifier.
mineral oil, the English name mineral oil: oil extracted from the colorless, odorless oil, rarely cause allergic reactions, will not form a solid and clog pores, it is widely used in cosmetics. cosmetic grade mineral oil or vaseline, is known to the safest, most do not stimulate the moisturizing ingredients.
mucopolysaccharide, the English name mucopolysaccharide: Glucose, also known as glycosaminoglycan (glycosaminoglycans). It has many members, is one of hyaluronic acid in skin tissue are common. mucopolysaccharide will lock in moisture and protein and other cell material to form a tight stromal cells, to ensure that skin cells get together.
nicotinamide, the English name of niacinamide: also known as vitamin B3, niacin, nicotinic acid. topical nicotinamide to increase skin ceramide and free fatty acids, to prevent the loss of skin water to stimulate the dermis layer of the micro-circulation. A small study found that 2% niacinamide to reduce skin moisture loss and increase skin moisture content is more effective than the vaseline.
pantothenic acid, the English name of pantothenic acid: also known as vitamin B5, claiming to treat acne. There is no study confirmed that pantothenic acid is effective in treating acne, but there are few studies found that it can maintain the water and promote wound healing.
phosphatidylcholine, the English name of phosphatidylcholine, PC: is lecithin active ingredient. the body composition of each cell membrane phospholipids are required, it is also the synthesis of the neurotransmitter acetylcholine (acetylcholine) of the main raw material. phosphatidylcholine is considered to be a very good insurance agent can help other ingredients penetrate skin, and strong absorption, no greasy or oily feeling heavy (glycerol, ceramide, and hyaluronic acid has a similar function).
Phytantriol English name phytantriol: hair and skin conditioning agent, also has The role of water.
sphingosine plants, the English name phytosphingosine: a complex long-chain fatty alcohol, with the secured agent, also has a preservative effect.
polysaccharide, the English name polysaccharide: a natural component of skin, is a good insurance agent, also has strong antioxidant effects.
PVP, English name polyvinylpyrrolidone: the ingredients on the label is usually marked as PVP or PVP copolymer, which is the main component of hair products . skincare products using small amounts of PVP can be formed on the surface of the skin layer of film is difficult to detect, in addition to water effects, but also can make the skin firmer, but in terms of some of the skin may cause skin irritation .
pregnenolone acetate, the English name of pregnenolone acetate: hormone precursor, can be used as security agent for external use. It is not to determine whether it can be absorbed through the skin
propylene glycol, the English name of propylene glycol: and ethylene glycol, glycerin, like propylene glycol is mainly used as moisturizing agents, also can be used as carrier, to help other ingredients to be absorbed through skin. the amount of propylene glycol in cosmetics is very small, so do not worry about their safety. U.S. Department of Health and Public Service (US Department of Health and Human Services) pointed out that The basic ingredients, including many biologically active substances such as enzymes, hormones and antibodies, is necessary for plant and animal substances to maintain normal function. protein on the skin has many benefits, but they are mainly used for agents secured agent and soft.
budding Aureobasidium enzymes polysaccharide, the English name pullulan: black yeast glucan produced a gum composition containing the polysaccharide, is a good insurance agent, thickening agents and antioxidants.
soap tree extract, the English name quillaja extract: Chilean soap tree extract, which is rich in saponins, the skin is clean, antibacterial, and the role of water.
sugar isomers, the English name of saccharide isomerate: a good insurance agent and soft agents.
silicone resin, the English name of silicone: from silica (sand is a silica) Preparation of a substance. As a liquid silicone resin properties, is easy to help spread on the skin, applied to the skin on with a silky touch, with moisturizing properties, in fact, moist skin when there are water features.
sodium lactate, the English name of sodium lactate: lactic acid sodium salt. the main use of secured agent and buffer (pH regulating cosmetics value).
PCA sodium, English name sodium PCA: PCA of the English full name of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid), is a natural component of skin, is also a good insurance agent.
sucrose English name sucrose: water retaining agent on the skin function with a simple sugar.
Qiongya Begonia oil, the English name tamanu oil: Qiongya Begonia originating from Polynesia, said it has a magical effect to promote wound healing, and a variety of skin diseases (such as acne, eczema, psoriasis) is a panacea, but all these are rumors, there is no basis in fact. It contains phospholipids and glycolipids, phospholipids and glycolipids are an inherent part of the skin, is a good insurance agent, so add Qiongya Begonia skin care products oil of the skin and there is no harm.
(animals) thymus hydrolysis, the English name thymus hydrolysate: animal thymus by acid hydrolysis, enzymes or products of other methods. For Absorbent skin effect, but no other effect.
trehalose, the English name trehalose: a plant sugar, water retaining agent on the role of the skin.
urea, English name urea: A urine composition, but in cosmetics are synthetic urea. low concentration of urea on the skin has good water and exfoliating effect, but high concentration of urea may cause skin irritation.
whey, the English name of whey: milk consists mainly of two types of protein: casein and whey. in skin care products, whey mostly used as a good insurance agent.
xylose, the English name xylose: a kind of sugar. and other sugars, like to the skin effect of super absorbent polymers.
Third, anti-wrinkle anti-aging ingredients
peptide, English name peptide: protein by a long chain of amino acids, the long chain is subdivided into various separate pieces, each independent fragments called peptides. peptide in the human body through the interaction with the target cells to regulate the activity of many systems. peptide in the skin wipe it help wound healing, repair the skin barrier function or the effect of sterilization conclusion is difficult, because the peptides are too hydrophilic, can not penetrate the skin, stay in the skin can not remain stable, and water as the base product is not stable peptides. In addition peptide enzymes break down easily, once the peptides are absorbed through the skin, the skin rich in enzymes quickly break down the peptide to make it useless. in the laboratory and the synthesis of fatty acids a good combination of peptides, peptide can overcome some shortcomings, and thus more stable nature and can penetrate the skin play a role, but it also requires long-term studies, synthetic peptides to determine what will produce results. could reasonably infer that, with the synthetic peptide technology, on the anti-aging and repair, we will have more products to choose from. In addition to preserving the role of water in order to go beyond the traditional synthetic peptide peptide, must meet three conditions: in cosmetics must be kept stable; and the carrier must be combined to enhance the ability to penetrate the skin ; before reaching the target cells can not be broken. To meet these three conditions are not easy, cosmetic chemists predicted that the three conditions with the peptide in the anti-aging skin care products, will have great prospects.
acetyl hexapeptide -3, the English name of acetyl hexapeptide-3: a widely used skin care and makeup products, synthetic peptides, in particular, claims to have injected with botulinum toxin (Botox injections) the same effect of skin care products wrinkles . If these skin care products effective, users do facial expressions, they should avoid muscle contraction and reduce wrinkles. but topical acetyl hexapeptide -3 Centerchem effective only from the company to say, and no relevant reports confirm its effects. If acetyl hexapeptide -3 can really relax facial muscles, painted in the face after (full face painting product requirements), the face of all the muscles are relaxed, then the facial skin will be sagging, but look older. Cosmetics the company has repeatedly boasted how acetyl hexapeptide -3 magic, but a clinical study found that acetyl hexapeptide -3's lifting capacity is far less than botulinum toxin.
palmitoyl pentapeptide -3, the English name palmitoyl pentapeptide 3: is a fatty acid and amino acid mixture obtained after reaction of compounds. At present, only manufacturers Sederma company, the study found that it can improve the skin. but beyond that no other independent research support this conclusion, we can not to determine the accuracy of the study. Sederma products recommended by the concentration of 3% to 5%, the concentration of market-related products is very low.
acid, English name AHA, full name of the alpha hydroxy acid: acid or milk from a variety of plant extract, but 99% of the acid in cosmetics are synthetic. acid is mainly used for long-term treatment of skin aging caused by sun exposure can also be used to remove excess skin aging, After using the acid, the living epidermis layer of epidermal cells and dermal glycosaminoglycan glucose will increase. There are many studies found that the use of acid in the skin (including glycolic acid and lactic acid) has anti-aging effect . acid can remove sun damage suffered skin keratinocytes, but keratinocyte layer has a protective effect of sunlight, so the use of AHA skin after sunburn easily. However, applying sunscreen product does not occur this problem.
coenzyme Q10, the English name of coenzyme Q10, also known as ubiquinone (ubiquinone): is present in all human cells in the vitamin material, can protect cells and help the body produce energy. a few studies found that coenzyme Q10 treatment of wrinkles. However, one study in vitro, and no other use of the control group, the findings can not draw a conclusion.
carnitine, English name carnitine: a natural amino acid . a lot of research on carnitine, especially acetyl L-carnitine (acetyl-L-carnitine), found that acetyl L-carnitine in maintenance of aging and the effects of brain functions best of all carnitine . There is also found that the carnitine rub the skin with antioxidant effect, but related research or too little.
fibronectin, English name fibronectin: stromal cells present in the skin of a protein Its properties are similar to collagen and elastin. fibronectin UV or other factors will be destroyed, which is caused by skin aging and wrinkling of the reasons. and other proteins, like fibronectin on the skin is a very good insurance agent. but does not spread on the skin to strengthen and repair the skin's own fibronectin.
g-aminobutyric acid, English name gamma aminobutyric acid / gamma amino-butyric acid, GABA: a synthesis in the brain amino acids, neurotransmitter inhibitors can be used to reduce the incidence of epilepsy and depression rates. some cosmetics companies GABA added to the product, claiming that you can relax the muscles after use, so consumers do not need an injection of botulinum toxin. However, no studies have found that topical GABA can relax the muscles to reduce wrinkles or expression lines. cosmetics company wants consumers to believe that products containing GABA on the skin GABA in the brain has the same effect, the same can inhibit nerve conduction, but study confirmed that topical GABA did not have such an effect, if any, is very serious consequences, it will inhibit the around the mouth, jaw and facial muscles, facial sagging skin will be so, perhaps not even finger muscles have been relaxed (to GABA applied to the fingers), hand not move.
KT, English name kinetin: scientific name of N6-methyl adenine furan (N6-furfuryladenine), is a promotion of cell division plant hormones. as a many, but most of the test or in vitro tests of plant, animal or human skin test using the KT little. The latest study found that emotional factors can promote skin cell renewal and differentiation, especially as inducer of calcium ion involved, its most significant effect, but the products containing kinetin did not add these substances.
L-carnitine, its English name L-carnitine: a carboxylic acid, is often mistaken for one. ..

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